Off to the land that brought us the Inquisition and the plundering of the New World. Flew Delta to Amsterdam and then KLM to Madrid with the first leg actually comfortable. Delta's crowd management was actually good. New seats were comfortable (for economy) but the rubber chicken dinner? Would have been better skipped. Otherwise an uneventful flight, the best kind. Carried on my luggage, no checked bags, and we'll see how that goes. Slept a bit on the plane.
Conversing in the plaza
July 27, 2018 - Segovia Home Stay
After arriving in Madrid, early morning, no luggage issues, I hooked up with a travel companion and we set out to travel by the 2-hour scenic train to Segovia.
After locating the Metro station and getting our tickets, we learned that the Segovia train didn't leave until 6pm, 7 hours later. So we changed plans and a couple more stops on the Metro took us to the bus station and a bus took us to Segovia. With an English speaking cab driver's help we found our home-stay hosts. That whole adventure took us four hours, one on the bus.
We met our Home-stay hosts for the first time, they became our surrogate parents, and mine are a wonderful, kind couple who speak not a word of English. The school wants us to think of them as "mom and dad" which for me seemed weird as I am 10 years older than them. We communicated through Google Translate.
I had some time for a walkabout and it turned out the home stay apartment is located just off the Plaza Mayor, a space lined with outdoor cafes and a stunning cathedral. It was hot, very hot, but dry, very dry. I cannot recall ever drinking so much water in such a short time. The photo is of two interesting people chatting in the plaza.
Our group met up for dinner and orientation followed by an evening viewing of a full lunar eclipse from the top of Segovia's Roman aqueduct (largest remaining aqueduct anywhere, over 2,000 years old). Segovia night life picks up after 10pm and the crowds are massive, street cafes packed and children playing games, riding their bikes and generally running about in the square.
And it was still going strong when I went to bed at midnight. We walked 3.5 miles.
Castle at night
July 28, 2018 - Segovia Photo Exhibit
Following a breakfast of toast our program began with a classroom session at the GEO facility. Built into the outside wall of the city in a re purposed building, with a non working elevator (no biggie) and oddly behaving wifi, we began. We were introduced to some assignments then a break for lunch and siesta.
The afternoon excursion was to an Exhibit titled "Hard Truths" displaying New York Times photographers works highlighted today's activities. The exhibit is traveling around Spain and we lucked out that it was in Segovia when we were. The gallery is a re purposed prison. The prison itself was kind of scarey. The cells not part of the exhibit were small, raw and dark.
We walked along the aqueduct to where it went underground and then to the prison. On the way back we scouted the bus station for next days adventure. Of course, we walked back the same, more than 6 miles total.
In the Plaza Mayor I noticed no street vendors, no local T-shirts or souvenirs. No beggars sitting or walking about. There was a street vendor selling mechanical toys along the walk to the aqueduct but that was it. Maybe we saw a begger here or there, but only one or two.
Everything seemed well maintained, built of stone and brick, very old, solid. How come Segovia keeps up its infrastructure and the US cannot? Drinking fountains are all around with continuously running water. Given all the heat, they almost are necessary as well as a nice feature. The photo is a night view of the castle, which along with the cathedral and aqueduct are Segovia's major tourist attractions.
Velaquez in The Prado
July 29, 2018 - Madrid Museums
We took a bus to Madrid. On the way I noticed how well Segovia keeps itself clean, this morning the streets around Plaza Major were being washed by an employee.
In Madrid it was the Metro to an alternate museum exit (the closest station was closed for construction). So we walked a bit extra to get to Reina Sofia Museum to see Picasso's Guernica. We also had the opportunity to see that and more Picasso and Dali and Miro. Taking photos in the museum was challenging. They let us take our cameras in and then stopped us whenever we tried to use them. To me it became a challenge to see what shots I could get. The shutter click kept giving me away. After the Sofia we crossed the street, found a park bench and ate our host supplied lunch. Following lunch was a short visit to El Prado Museum where many of Diego Velazquez works are displayed including the one here. He, being Spain's favorite artist, was well represented. Additionally an incredible collection of Goya's work is there. The Prado has to stand among the world's greatest art museums. We returned by Metro then bus walking a total of 4 miles.
Walking back we stopped by a grocery to stock up on stuff. While waiting outside there was a young, very attractive, well dressed, well groomed woman sitting on a box holding a cup and quietly begging. I imagine many of the store's customers didn't realize what she was asking and the vast majority just ignored her. The scene was incongruous and I was very curious about her circumstances. But she didn't speak English and I never found out her situation. I will always be wondering.
Housekeeping at the Cathedral
July 30, 2018 - Segovia Cathedral and Alcazar de Segovia
The Segovia Cathedral, located on Plaza Major, is old, big and stunning in architectural detail. Inside, its wood partitions and gates are made from mahogany wood brought to Spain by Columbus. Even the cathedral needs a housekeeper, the photo. Tomorrow wee will climb its tower, some 200 steps.
Alcazar de Segovia is a castile/palace built before roman times and added to by the romans who also added the aqueduct, bringing water to the castle. Upgraded by the the Moors who contributed substantially to the style.
It was here in this castle in the throne room that King Fernand and Queen Isabella heard and decided to fund Columbus's proposal to discover the new world.
We walked 4 miles and got to bed by 11pm.
If you think about it, this decision to fund eventually lead to the plundering of the Myans and Incas and the oppression of the Americas. Visiting Peru and Cuba it is clear resentment of Spain is strong to this day. Is it possible all this behavior by Spain lead to the inquisition?
Balloon over Alcazar castle
July 31, 2018 - Segovia Moon and Balloon
Started out at sunrise walking to a park on the other side of Alcazar to watch the light change on the castle (or front side, some say, but opposite from the draw bridge) The changes in light were dramatic but the exciting part turned out to be a hot air balloon that passed above the castile and shortly after that the almost full-moon did the same.
Without pausing for breakfast or coffee we started our morning class session (and we did eventually did break for coffee). Following class and more assignments, we went to Tierrade Salor and were treated to local wine, cheese, salami and olive oil samples. Lunch was paella, a flavor full seafood dish of Spain.
After lunch was open until 8 PM and the church bell tower climb. The smart thing would have been to use the break for a siesta. But, no, not me. The time allowed me to review photos and fix and upload assignments 2,3 and 4.
Just after 8 PM we climbed to the top of the bell tower, 190 steps. It's amazing all the structures contained inside the tower. The climb was narrow and circular and all stone. Part of the way up was a meeting room and further up another one. Then around 120 steps was the bell-ringer's home. It was a two story come complete with bedrooms, a kitchen and a living room. Not sure about the bathroom facilities. Supplies had to be brought up by rope and pulley. Mr. Bell Ringer had Sundays and holidays off, otherwise he was in his tower home.
Another 60 or so steps was the room housing the bells. Beautiful views. Worth the climb for the views. Good opportunity to take photos from the highest point in Segovia. And as the light was getting great, we were chased out so the cathedral could be locked up for the night.
An even greater experience followed. The streets of the city Centro are filled with outdoor cafes. You can't go a block without encountering one. We all picked one and sat and ordered beer which was really good. With the beer came tapas, plates of bite size snacks. Seriously good snacks. The best part though was the conversation and getting to know our fellow travelers. Also walking 5.9 miles felt good but ....
Soaking up the Granja fountain spray
August 1, 2018 - Segovia Granja Palace and Fountains
The morning was in the classroom. critique #2. Instructor providing great feedback. I often disagree with some things but understand the points and they are helpful.
Lunch today was meatballs and potatoes in a broth. It was delicious but maybe a little unhealthy. When I walked in I was greeted by Anna and son Lucus, hosts daughter and grandson. Anna and Olympia left leaving us with Lucus who proceeded to have a temper tantrum, in Spanish. Also learned from Ferdinand that Anna's brother, an accomplished fluta player, was killed in a motorcycle accident 12 years ago. Ouch.
At 3pm we had to catch a bus to the Palace. Now, Segovia Centro is not that big, a walled city where the bus station is only a bunch of steps outside the walls but every time we walked there, Even using map.me I ended up on a different route each time. The narrow roads within the city walls are so squarely, probably laid out by king's children drawing with crayons.
At the palace, which was huge and belongs to the royal family still to this day, there was this room of tapestries on steroids. Incredible in scale and design. The palace rooms, filled with paintings and statuary, and painted ceilings and chandlers, were ok, most of the statues were plaster castings, fake, fake. The fountains in the gardens were the place to be when they were switched on, and we were there for a couple. Ginormous sprays, at least 50 feet up, where did they get the water pressure? When turned on, a fountain attracted hundreds of tourists. And those standing nearest to the water got soaked when the wind blew. Walked 5.4 miles today.
Bullet train, fast, very fast
August 2, 2018 - Bullet Train to Oviedo
After sad good-bys to my home host I was off to the number 11 bus that would take us to the train station. As I was getting ready to leave, my host-father announced he would take me to the bus. I had to point out that I was a big boy and it was ok to let me find it on my own. Did I mention what wonderful people my hosts were? Father still insisted on walking me to Plaza Mayor, a couple hundred feet from their home. Turns out Thursday is market day in the square and he just wanted to show me. There was a lot of fresh produce and some clothing. All of Segovia seems to be a tourist destination but this market was for the locals.
The bullet train offered an opportunity to catch up on sleep. But some of us were so far behind editing, like me, we used the time to process. Don and I were also able to have our delayed one-on-one meeting. Meanwhile the train did something strange at one stop. We started going backwards but somehow we were still going to Oviedo. And the speed and vibration of the train changed, apparently no longer bulleting.
After arriving in Oviedo, a town in the Asturias region in the very north, we were cabbed to the GEO dorm (on campus of and owned by University of Oviedo). Got our room keys; settled in. A welcomed private room with a our own bath. Towels provided as promised but no soap (not promised). Thankfully, we make a grocery visit before dinner.
Dinner was a short walk and included with out tuition. Our first choice had nothing available. In fact every outdoor cafe was jammed. We ended up at a place Don had been to before and we were taken to their basement. It wasn't really a basement, just a lower level. It was quiet. Dinner began with an introduction to the local cider. Waiters held the bottle as high as they could reach and the glass as low as they could reach and poured without looking. Some cider found its way into the cup and some to the floor. The high pour helps open up the flavor, I guess.
Dinner was seafood and fabulous and a little bit more pricey than the GEO allowance but worth it. Day ended and our walking accumulated 5 miles in total.
Drinking fountain in the park
August 3, 2018 - Hike Mt. Naranco
Beginning with a breakfast roll and coffee in the dorm cafeteria, we had another critique. I do not understand why VPN is blocked as well Fetch and Dreamweaver uploading. However, for the critique it was possible, but painful to upload to my website using ISP's tools.
Enough about technical failures. Following a lunch of fruit and nuts we headed out for Mt. Naranco, elev. 2,080'. While waiting for a bus, we took some photos in a park where I waited a short distance from a drinking fountain to capture images there.
At the beginning of the hike we saw the church Santa Maria, very old, and a tiny palace, just as old. A hundred yards or so past the palace while walking on the easy paved road to the mountain top and a statue of Christ, arms out welcoming us, we found the dirt path we were advised not to take. Did we stay on the easy paved road, no. We switched to the dirt path, less traveled. Eventhough we were warned how easy it is to get lost, no worries with our gps. And it
wasn't even the thorns from the overgrowth that was tough, the slope was extreme and the sun was hot. And even that might have been ok if I was on my own andcould pace myself, like, maybe an extra day or so. I was just winded. It was a difficult but great climb, at least for me, maybe a 5 on a scale of 1-5, or maybe not. I'm impressed that none of the others were tired. Only spider webs slowed them down.
I think Don must have been worrying about my condition because he ordered us a cabto take us down to our dorm. Also might have been we took so long and needed to get back, not sure. After washing up, some of our compatriots had the idea to get pizza which we had with wine on the patio. To bed at 1 am for me and 2 am for others. Walked/hiked only 4.1 miles but climbed the equivalent of 70 floors. How many floors in the Empire State building?
Dorm room view
August 4, 2018 - Some Needed Relaxation
Today began with a class on some Lightroom details. Group lunch at Lunch at Pelayo, out of our own pocket, but 3.5 euros hardly counts. Most of the group headed to the train station to spend the balance of the day and evening in Gijón. Me, I needed rest and wanted to catch up on this blog so I got a few groceries for dinner, tried out the ATM and crashed. Besides it's 93 degrees and humid so even the incentive of Gijón's clothing optional beaches weren't enough to change my mind.
Staying in the dorm was not so bad. Blocking open the door to the hall and the door to the balcony provided the air conditioning, a nice breeze. Yes balcony. In a dorm room. And the view, magnificant. See photo. Really.
Ready for what tomorrow brings.
Swim Day at The Ocean
August 5, 2018 - Sunday, Beach Day
Decided to go where Don goes. Used the morning to do Artist Report 4 and a little relaxation. Mid afternoon it was a hike to the bus station to catch a bus to Avilés then a cab to the beach in Salinas. The route took us through what must have been Asturias's Gary, Indiana. We saw steel mills, possibly a refinery, a shipping port, all contained in s short drive.
A huge beautiful beach it was (once past the industrial zone), especially with the tide out. So we were dropped on the east end and decided some of us wanted to catch a bite to eat, way to the west end. So hike along the ocean we did and some dropped towels and decided to swim while a few of us hiked up to the road a a small restaurant where you could get a hamburger and beer. Despite their extensive menu, the restaurant served only hamburgers. And despite our seriously cute waitress asking how we liked our hamburgers done and each of us requesting a different temperature, all came medium rare. I liked the berger a lot and then bought a t-shirt. It just felt right.
We caught our cab back just outside the restaurant and somehow bypassed all the industry, going through town instead. Then the bus then the exhausting hike back to the dorm and bed.
Sampling The House's Wares
August 6, 2018 - Trip to a Cider House
We had a morning field trip began with another walk to the bus station and then a half hour ride to Nava where we had a guided tour of the cider house, Sidra Viuda de Angelón, a place where they smush apples and ferment them into a cider beverage that can only be poured across several feet to a cup. Otherwise it will not taste right. The place was full of ginormous tanks, lots of stainless steel pipes, valves and pumps, some bottle aging racks (following the old champaign method for aging) and an automated bottling line. Having had a beer producer client took some of the newness from this experience.
From the cider house we walked to town to grab a snack and take a bus back, turns out, a half hour late bus back. Waiting outside in the 102 F heat was uncomfortable for some. And if you could find it, the shade was a cooler 86. Eventually the bus showed up (it was explained to us that it's common for the bus to be late cause it's a small town).
Back in Oviedo it was another hike, this time back to our dorm with a stop off for a group photo with a bronze statue of a famous Spanish photographer. In our rooms we were given some time to rest and catch up. I chose to eat the sandwich I brought back from this morning's breakfast. It was a mashed potatoes sandwhich. Gotta love them carbs. For whatever reason, I had to go out for pizza and beer and back to the dorm for wine with my compatriots. Thinking about it, what was I thinking?
Lady walking in the park
August 7, 2018 - Aviles and The Fish Auction
Day started out with a clear sky and a mountain view. After breakfast there was brief class time and a hike to the bus station and Avilias. From the bus station there we found the old city which was old, like the other old city centers. Here we were on our own to photograph whatever we could find.
Walking about using map.me I only got lost 3 or 4 times. We were to meet up at Centro Niemeyer for a hike to the fish market. Map.me took me in circles before I found the street that crossed the train tracks and road.
Along the hike we passed some fishing boats and a couple very large spools of fishing net being repaired. So I guess they fish with huge drag nets. Later when we asked we were told the fishermen do not catch endangered or out of season fish. I wonder how those nets can do that. So much we can learn from those fishermen.
At the fish auction house, we were given a tour that lasted longer than the auction itself. Yawn. The auction was something else. In a amphitheater fish buyers sat with the bidding clickers. Fish in small tubs moved along a conveyer, a camera projected each tub on a screen and a starting price appeared and immediately began counting down until a buyer pushed his or her button. The building itself was a long cross-dock. On the channel side the fish came in already sorted and in their tubs. Runners with forklift trucks moved the fish to the conveyer. On the other side, more forklifts brought the sold fish tubs to their respective buyer's truck docks. Everybody rushed. The day's catch was unloaded from the boats, sold, and loaded into the buyer's trucks with great speed so the day's catch arrived at the wholesaler's warehouses, packed in ice, in minutes.
The tour itself was especially tedious for me since I couldn't understand a word. After we walked back to the bus station, bussed back to Oviedo, and walked back to the dorm, stopping along the way for a bite to eat. Our last evening in Oviedo was concluded with an evening sampling of Spanish wine and fizzy Champaign style bubbly. Walked 27,542 steps, 11.2 miles and 19 floors, if you can believe iPhone. In bed for a 7AM wake up alarm.
Small engine serviceman by bus station
August 8, 2018 - Pre-historic Cave Paintings
As Don put it, wheels up at 8:00 AM and hasta la vista Oviedo. End of the mile long walks to the bus station. We are going to travel in style with our way mini-bus.
Here in Ribadesella, where Tito Bustillo, a recently discovered pre-historic home-cave resides, we're viewing cave drawings made sometime between 10,000 and 14,000 years ago. The people who made these wall drawings were very sophisticated in their attention to detail.
There were mostly horse figures drawn in black on an ochre background. The drawings were high up on the wall and ceiling, well back from the entrance. Why did they make these drawings, how did they reach the ceiling to make the drawings, why so far back in the cave and finally is it a coincidence that the drawings were similar in style and media here in Spain and in France and Germany, etc.
After our cave experience, it was a short drive to Las Arenas where we checked into the hotel Los Angeles. After a couple of hours to situate ourselves, it was time for a group dinner, a walk about and bed.. Tomorrow we start with a sunrise photo session but tonight's heavy cloud cover doesn't look promising.
Proprietor of Queseria with young blue cheeses
August 9, 2018 - A blue cheese Factory and then Bilbao
We start our day up and out by 7AM for a sunrise photo session. The morning was fairly clear and the beautiful light was fantastic for 10 minutes or so. Breakfast at a small patisserie on the way back to Hotel Los Angeles and the mini-bus.
A winding drive to Tielve and a Queseria (cheese factory) where we were lead through the steps of curdling the milk, aging it for a couple of days in molds while it solidifies. After that a transfer to the cheese cave. Getting to the cave was a bit of a hike. And in the cave it is packed with cheese rounds, slippery muddy floors and much rock protrusions. There were maybe six producers of blue cheese aging their cheese in the cave. Cabrales cheese is only produced here. They have a DOC.
We're on our way to Bilbao, not Spain and not France but Basque Country. The expressway signs are showing a lot of z's and x's. Don promises great street photography opportunities but mind the pick pockets. We're dropped off a few blocks from our stay due to street construction and say so long to our driver. After checking in we find we all have kitchenettes, but no A/C. None of the places we've stayed have A/C or even window screens. Those Spaniards are tougher than us.
First thing after checking in was a review of the evening's and next day's events. A brief time to update this blog and it was off to dinner. Tripadvisor and Google both recommended the same place. closed for vacation. We found ourselves at what Don called "the fish market, the Merkatua La Ribera, a very modern food court serving many different pintxos (Basque small plates). Could be the second best dining experience in Spain.
After overeating there it was off to see the Bilbao Guggenheim from the outside. Inside tomorrow. Found my way back to hostel and bed.
Pintxos For Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.
August 10, 2018 - Bilbao and Basque Explore
This morning started with a short orientation meeting and a short walk back to the fish market. There on the second floor was stalls offering fresh fish, meat and produce. And we have Kroger. That's the second floor. Back to the first floor for some breakfast. I've had better coffee but the fresh orange juice was amazing.
Then a couple of streets over and we're walking about the old city and taking lots of photographs. The streets are narrow, of course, but that doesn't prevent delivery trucks which makes picturing taking a little hazardous. We're on our own till 1PM and its inside the Guggenheim for a look at Chagall's Le Marchand de Bastiex (audio guide stop #704). His use of color and geometric shapes are notable. We're free to wander until 9:30 pm. Dinner at the fish market and back to hostel for farewell wine and blue cheese.
Did I mention our accommodations, the tub's dangerious.
August 11, 2018 - Last Day
This morning began with the discovery that the dining room opens later for breakfast. By the time our 8:30 meeting was over:
(1) We're told to pack and do whatever and check out at noon and meet then. (2) We'll need to put our luggage in storage until we walk it to cabs a block or so away. (3)The dining room was packed with long lines. And
(4) The elevator stopped working with us packed inside (probably overloaded because it ended up in the basement with us forcing the door open).
I did finally get breakfast and it was ok; Spain does not take pride in their coffee. And did I describe our accommodations? The photo is a half sized tub for showering. Note the step a third of the way back. Do not, I repeat, do not try to stand on the step; very slippery.
Because checkout is noon and we leave for the Bilbao airport at 5:30 we used the morning to pack and get ready. At noon we had our final critique and Artist Report. That finished we heading for the airport and check in. Got there a little early, had a beer, checked in and arrived in Madrid around 10:30pm.
Our hotel reservation was at IBES Airport. Their shuttle was promised within 10 minutes of collecting our baggage. We patiently waited 40 minutes before calling again and was told 10 minutes at which time the shuttle arrived and about 50 people were lined up for 16 seats. We took cabs the 1.8 mile ride. Check in was actually efficient and the rooms good and there was AIR CONDITIONING, the first since arriving in Spain.
The fourth or fifth passport check before boarding.
August 12, 2018 - Flying Home
Going home. Flight was very comfortable. Maybe because I flew first class back. Hearing everyone speaking English was also comforting. I know it would not be reasonable to ask all the Spaniards to speak English, would it?
Here's some final statistics: we completed a 200 level Color Theory course while walking an average of 5.4 miles each of the 17 days we were in Spain and climbed an average of 19 flights of stairs. Looking at it another way, I walked an average of 14,067 steps each day and posted my blog and did the assignments and drank more beer and stayed up later then any time since college. It was great.
Spain —View from Oviedo dorm room where we stayed.
Summary
Ok, so Spain is the country that gave us the Inquisition and the plundering of the New World. Today it offers us a compelling wonder of sights and flavors. Our 18 day tour of three major locations, Sergovia, Orviedo and Bilbao, provided many unique experiences. We saw the spot where Columbus stood and asked Ferdinand and Isabella for the needed money to begin Spain's plundering, we walked ancient roman streets and enjoyed great beer in the outdoor cafés in the square. In fact I was with some incredible photographers and we stayed up till 1:00 and 2:00 am drinking beer and sharing experiences.
We visited museums to see Picasso's Guernica and works of Dali, Goya and Velazquez. We saw Frank Gehry's Guggenheim in Bilbao and a blue cheese factory and cave paintings perhaps 30,000 years old. And climbed to the top of a mountain, on the path less traveled, to see a big statue.
All those experiences meant walking 5.4 miles and climbing equivalent of 19 flights of stairs every day ... and completing a Color Theory photography course with ten assignments and four reports. Maybe it's just my age but I struggled, skipping the siesta to do the homework, still, I'd do it again.
Perhaps a note on Spanish cuisine. There's paella which was excellent, and the many, many different hams sliced paper thin and, potatoes, potatoes, potatoes. Croquettes, sandwiches, tortuous, and on and on. Oh and the weather, hot, no rain, no clouds, no air conditioning and no Spaniard seemed to expect otherwise. Maybe that's because they could only speak Spanish?
Spain is not better, not worse, just different. And that's enough reason to experience it.
